Tales From The Trax: June 2013

This is a bit of a summary to date:

Sunday 05/05/2013

We left home sort of on time. we got away at 0630 and drove through to Manong, where we met our travel companions Susan and Glenn.

From there we headed to Hattah Lakes where we planned to spend the night. We arrived in plenty of time to set up camp and light a nice fire, which we needed as the temperature plunged toward zero as the sun set.

Hattah is semi desert with red sand that reminded me of the Simpson Desert. The camp sites are magnificent, but i imagine very busy during holiday periods. Drop loos were clean. (Is it only blokes who use a torch to check out the condition of drop loos?)

First night at Hattah Celebrating the first night

Monday 06/05

We decided to stay put, and do some last minute re-packing and planning for the days ahead. Glenn had a water pump malfunction, so we pulled it apart and hopefully fixed the problem (albeit with Rescue Tape) . So far so good.

When blokes know nothing about stuff, pull things apart and put it back together, there is always useless junk left over, so we built a rocket ship with our pump left-overs.

Tuesday 07/05

We were on the road by 9, with the aim of reaching Burra. When we reached Renmark, we rang ahead to book sites, as Carolyn and i have been caught out previously, having to spend a night at then Show-grounds in the snow!

The last 150 klm or so driving into Burra is one of my favourites. Long stretches of straight road, and a horizon that stretches as far as the eye can see. The perfect music to listen to is Sarah Brightman.

Wide open spaces I love driving these roads

It was lucky we called to book, as we were given the last 2 sites, and we rang at lunch time. Burra is a half way stop for caravans heading both directions. We luxuriated in the showers and did some washing. Must be a chick thing as i couldn’t understand why we had to wash as i had only been wearing my clothes for 4 days. A perfect example of wasting water.

Wednesday 08/05

We were off and heading for the Mount Remarkable National Park, which is just south of Port Augusta. What a find this NP was. Beautifully appointed camp sites, large enough for a big van or tents. No power, but great water, flushing loos, AND HOT SHOWERS! The wild life was spectacular, with Kanga's hopping around and thousands of rosellas flying in on dusks.

Thursday 09/05

We decided Mount Remarkable NP was so “remarkable”, we would stay an extra day and go for a nice long walk to stretch the aching bones from sitting in the car for so long. We did a medium walk, so set off on an 8klm jaunt which was really special.

Friday 10/05

The aim today was to get to Glendambo, just over 100klm north of the Woomera turn off. Arriving mid afternoon, we set up camp and wandered into the pub. we were amazed at the size, and talking to the bar-man found out the complex was built to cater for the coaches starting their central Australian tours from Adelaide. In it’s hey-day, they were catering for up to 10 coaches a week, providing meals and accommodation. Due to the cheap air-fares, they are now lucky to see 1 a week. We decided to have a meal there, instead of cooking and it was absolutely one of the best pub meals i have had, the best lamb shanks ever.

Saturday 11/05

Coober Pedy

We spent an afternoon looking around CP, but as it was a Saturday arvo, not much was open, so we had a look at the underground churches. they were all spectacular in their own way.

Sunday 12/05

As Glenn and Susan wanted to spend some extra time at CP, we decided to move on and meet up in a couple of days. we drove to Kulgera just over the Northern Territory/South Australian border. It is a pretty basic camp ground next to the general store/petrol station and bar. As it was pretty wet and cold, we decided to attend “Happy Hour” and buy our tea. Like most of these out of the way places, the fuel is as dear as poison $2.09 a litre, however, The beer is always cold, but the food remarkably cheap and good.

We stayed at Kulgera Road House, which on the surface looked a bit average, but the showers were hot with plenty of water. There was a bar with 6 to 7 happy Hour (and plenty of history) which we enjoyed, then had a great dinner, in the really interesting bar, complete with colourful characters.

We went to bed about 8 as it was raining and absolutely freezing.

Monday 13/05

When we got up, at least it had stopped raining, but was still pretty cold. we packed up and headed for Yulara. We thought fuel was expensive here at $2.28 litre. Little did we know what was in store for us.

Tuesday 14/05

Today we arrived at Yulara Camp ground, which is the nearest camp to Uluru. We booked 2 sites, as Glenn and Susan were coming in late afternoon. Camp sites are pretty dear here at $42 a night for 2 people. Uluru is an 18 klm drive. On the way you have to purchase a 3 day or annual Park Pass. the 3 day is $???

We climbed to the top of a sand dune lookout to watch the sunset over The Rock, but it was disappointing as there was no sun, only grey cloud.

Wednesday 15/05

Yulara

We drove out to Uluru which is about a 20 minute drive. On the way you are required to purchase a parks pass (3 day for $28 or annual $32). We decided to buy the annual, as we are hoping to come back through this area.

We went out to Uluru and did the 8klm walk around the base. The rock is as stunning as all of the brochures depict.

Thursday 16/05

We arrived at Kings Canyon park early afternoon, set up and into Happy Hour, which seems to be dragging on into 2 hours. We then watched a magnificent sunset shining on a massive bluff, which is seen from your camp-site. A pretty good camping area, with power and water. We were hoping for a bit more free-camping, but if you want to be close to things, like the canyon, you really have to shell out and stay in a park. (There are plenty of spots to camp on the side of the road along the way, but sometimes can be up to 100klm or more from where you want to be). Also many of the areas are National Park or Native Title land, where you need to obtain permits prior to arriving.

Friday 17/05

We had a slow start and after preparing lunches set off to walk the 4 klm canyon loop. The first part of the walk is rated as “hard”, as it goes up the canyon wall, it ended up being pretty easy, and the views as you go up to die for. We walk at a pretty slow pace as we do not want to miss anything. the sites are spectacular, with a photo opportunity at every step of the way.

Saturday 18/05

Carolyn and i decided as the Mereenie Loop was now open after the rain, we would give it a go. We topped p with fuel at $2.33 a litre, and set off with a little trepidation.

Glenn and Susan decided to head back to the Sturt Highway and head to Alice Springs, then head west to meet us where we came out of the meet us in a couple of days at one of many gorges.

The Mereenie Loop is 190 klm of dirt track. We actually made good tine with our average speed around 50. On the way we spotted, lots of brumbies, donkeys, dingoes and the odd crow.

The country was sensational, ranging from grassy plains, complete with large grass trees, spectacular gorges with Namijira scenery everywhere.

We arrived at Hermannsburg, which was the home of Namijira, where he was a member of the Hermannsburg Art Group.

After booking into the only place to stay in town at the caravan park(?) we decided to move on, as we were the only campers there,with a lot of rubbish scattered about. It was less than appealing, and the gates were locked at 6pm, with you inside.

We drove to Palm Valley, which is a further 18 klm along a 4WD only track. Caravans would not make it as it is very bumpy with creek crossings. The large sign says in bold red cap letters “Allow 3 hours – 4WD high clearance vehicles only”, and yep it’s pretty rough.

When we arrived a the camp-site, we could not believe the beauty of the place. At $13.20 a night ($13.20! cash only) in an envelope, you’d think they would try to make it easy and round up/down, oh well not worth complaining for the price. Flushing loos and solar hot-water showers.) We would really like to stay here a few nights as there are walks amongst and over the gorges.

Sunday 19/05

Palm Valley

We walked into Palm Valley. Then walk is rated as medium and allow 2 hours. The “medium”, was pretty right, but the 2 hours questionable. Maybe walking non stop you might do it, but we like to meander and soak up the scenery and atmosphere, so three and a half hours later we returned to the car.

Palm Valley is the hi-lite of our trip to date. you could stay a week. The most beautiful camp site, clean loos and warm to hot showers. Again a National Park so around $6.50 person a night.

We had a long chat with the Ranger, a young French girl, who had a fantastic knowledge of the flora and fauna of the area.

Monday 20/05

Glen Helen Resort

Glen Helen is far from the “resort” that we thought it would be. I think in days gone past, Reg Ansett may have had an interest in it. still it had a bar and we were treated to a musical night with the well known blues player Slim Pickins, all the way from Byron.

It was a night to remember, he is an amazing performer. He played for a couple of hours, and with only a dozen or so people there it was very close up and personal.

We decided to stay an extra night and try to walk some of the gorges, if the rain held off and guess what? It didn't;t. The decision was made to pack up in the morning and head for Alice Springs, where we could catch up on some much needed food shopping, fuel, water and power.

Tuesday 21/05

Arrived Alice Springs, and it poured and poured with torrential northern rains. The shops are good and reasonably priced, so we topped up with all necessities, then the next day drove the 120 klm back to the gorge country to finish some of the walks we wanted to do, but the rain stopped us. In fact most of the roads had been closed, so it was good that we left when we did. however on our return the sun was out and we had a fantastic day walking the Ormiston Gorge.

Wednesday 22/05

Alice is a very interesting town but like a number of areas has quite a few social problems.

Thursday 23/05

Ormiston

Friday 24/05

We decided to stay at The Devil’s Marbles for the night, we arrived about 3 o’clock, following the signs to the camping area, we were astounded to find no less that 38 caravans parked side by side. Much later and we would not have found a spot. Damn Grey Nomads, all looking for a cheap nights camping.

The Devil’s Marbles are interesting in that they are not caused by an upheaval of the earth, but as a result of erosion. The earth has simply been washed and blown away leaving the marbles as we see them today.

Saturday 25/05

Longreach Water Hole (Lake Woods)

We took a turn just out of Elliot and followed a sandy track for 11klm, arriving we discovered 8 kilometres of lake-side camping, nice grassy areas, can have fires, and it’s all free! you could stay a week here, dropping the odd yabby net in. the water was refreshing to swim in as well. Only one set of drop loos, which were a bit of a drive away, so the bush sufficed.

We had a beautiful full moon and listened to the dingoes howl.

Sunday 26/05

We were told not to stop at Mataranka! however we did, and what a find. We stayed at Mataranka Homestead Resort and had a ball. Great camp ground, a bar with a solo player, sitting listening to the music having a beer.

Only a 5 minute walk to the thermal springs where we wallowed for hours.

Monday 27/05

Still at Mataranka

We drove to Elsey Cemetery, the place where the real life characters of the book we of the Never Never, are buried, including the husband of Jeannie Gunn, Aenaes Gunn.

Elsey Cemetery

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If you have not read the book, grab a copy as it epitomises the life of the early settler. Unfortunately Aenaes died of Malarial Dysentery quite young. Jeannie left the station and returned to Melbourne where she died in her 90’s about 50 years later, but she never forgot her beloved out-back country.

We then drove a short distance to Bitter Springs. This place is sheer paradise. We just hung in the pools for hours and hours, making us very late for Happy 2 Hours.

Bitter Springs Thermal Stream

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Tuesday 28/05

Had a wander through Mataranka Homestead and back to Bitter Springs for some therapeutic, back to camp for lunch, a walk to Stevie's Hole and Rainbow Springs finishing up at Mataranka Thermal Springs. By this time we were totally water-logged, so thought we had better move on.

Wednesday 29/05

We drove to Katherine for a food top up, then to Katherine Gorge NP. Another great find, particularly as our camp is 3 metres from a beautiful pool. The only thing we have to put up with are the bats, hundreds of the little buggers, and do they make a noise!

Thursday 30/05

We hopped on a boat and did the 3 gorges cruise. It was magnif. You go up to the head of the first (of 13) gorges), walked a couple of hundred metres over some rocks, got onto a second boat, did the same and onto the 3rd gorge.

On the way back we stop[pad at The Lily Pond for a swim under a beautiful water fall.

Cruisin back we spotted a fresh water croc, she was a big one just over 3 metres long. Apparently there are also lots of Salties in the bottom gorge. They do go further upstream, but as the water drops head back down. the Rangers do a thorough search before declaring the water safe to swim.

Not sure about their checking process, as the water is up to 25 metres deep in places.

Friday 31/05 – What a SPECIAL day

Today will be pool, walk, pool, walk, pool, pool Happy Hour.

We had dinner by the pool. a sensational setting. One of the Rangers also puts on a show on Friday night’s. he was a great singer, guitar player. He played and sang songs from Australiana to modern. In the middle of a song a 3.5 metre Olive Python decided to crawl across the pool area, scattering over-seas tourists to every part of the park. Us tough Aussies just sat there as if this is an every day occurrence. we were actually soiling out jocks. The singer played on, even as the python decided to see what he had in the VB can at his feet.

After the show we were talking to the muso/ranger, and it came out that he was a little more than worried. The snake continued on and tried to climb onto a guys knee to steal his chicken dinner. He was told not to feed it and to keep his hands high above the table so that it could not get a grip on him.

I’m afraid i might have been tempted to give it a head-ache with a shovel, but being in a National Park, i imagine i would be pretty unpopular.

In the morning in was speaking to a guy in the loos (where you pick up all the camp gos). As it was a very hot night last night, all of the back-packers and tenters left their tents unzipped to try and get some air. In the wee small hours, Ms Olive Python decided to enter a young girls tent and wrap itself around her arm, probably thought it has a nice rat. the girl woke up and became quite distraught, attracting fellow campers. This was mainly due to her being 23yo, in knickers and no top. The 25 guys all tried to assist.

One guy grabbed the python and strangled it just behind the head as another unwrapped the tail, the other 23 of us all tried to calm her down, all of the other guys took hundreds of photos of the python. Me on the other hand was only interested in other things.

Unfortunately in the ruckus, the poor girl suffered a couple of nasty bites from the snake. It was a fantastic way to finish off what was a very memorable birthday.

Saturday 01/06

We left for Kakadu, actually Cooinda resort Caravan Park, as Kakadu is the name of the whole region. Cooinda is an aboriginal owned and managed in partnership. It was a short 275 klm drive. Again the country changed dramatically as we moved into the flood plains area. There are signs everywhere warning us of crocodiles. The water is just starting to recede after the wet, so there are plenty of crocs around. so far only 1 area has been cleared. tomorrow we are going on a breakfast cruise. you are not allowed to drive to the car-park where the boat is due to croc activity. we have to go by shuttle bus, and be met by Rangers who are guarding the path to the boat.

Kakadu certainly has tourism sorted out. Apparently the area does not close, and continues 365 days a year. Such is the importance of the tourist dollar.

The weather has certainly changed from a week ago, as i type this at 8:52pm it is still 27.5 degrees, which is magnif, apart from the millions of little bugs.

Sunday 02/06

Today started off at 6:30 with a sunrise boat tour with Yellow River Cruises. As crocs are still active you are not permitted to drive to the boat dock. We caught a shuttle for the 5 minute drive. Once there you have to walk along a long boardwalk totally surrounded by fencing, to keep the little varmints out, and us in.

The bird life was stunning, we were able to get up very close to sea-eagles, hawks, and all types of critters who live in the wet-lands, including a 3 metre saltie. The whole experience is as good, if not better than all of the brochures and docos on the area.

after breaky (provided as part of the tour, we decided to head off to the Maguk Plunge Pools, about 50 klm down the road. The pools were just opened the other day, after the wet, and have been declared clear of crocs. we headed off and walked the last 2 kilometres up some fairly steep terrain and suddenly came to the pools. It was a bit of a scramble down to them, but boy, was it worthwhile we stayed in the pools for hours. There are 3 levels, all so deep they are black, flowing through high cliffs. Warm water, holding onto the rocks, one could almost fall asleep thinking of the water running over the beautifully smooth rocks over millions of years. Reluctantly we headed back so that Happy hour would not be missed.

Tomorrow we are thinking of heading out to Jim Jim Falls, which is 50 klm down a (very) rough 4wd track. This has also just been opened, but we are unsure about the swimming, we will have to find out tomorrow.

Until next time, see youse.

Monday 03/06

We decided on a drive north, and ended up at Ubirr, which is the border between Kakadu and Arnhem Land. We were told by Bruce, our friendly camp-ground supervisor this is the place to visit, to watch the fisherman fishing for Barra from a ford, and watch the crocs creep up on then then take them off at the knees. Bruce said that they have rocks in their heads. We watched them for a while, but gave up when there was no site of a croc within the hour.

on the way up we copped a bullet stone and had 2 small “star” cracks in the windscreen, so called in at Jabiru (famous for it’s uranium mining) and i repaired the screen with my repair kit purchased at the last 4 x 4 show. Best $25 i have ever spent.

We drove back to Noulangie, where we read was some of the best rock-art around. And we were not disappointed. It still amazes me to stand in front of a painting on rocks, me 64yo and these dating back 30,000. I bet no mark i leave on this world will last a fraction of these masterpieces.

We noticed a sign that the rangers give free talks at times. we only had to wait 10 minutes and a young ranger rocked up, and gave us the best history lesson on the country i have ever heard. It was so good, we followed him around to hi next 2 sessions. It gave us a totally new vision into the lives of the people who have lived here for so long, and how the paintings are only a snap-shot of the whole picture.

After he finished his talks, we drove a couple of kilometres and walked to the top of a hill to watch the sunset.

Off today to Darwin. We booked ahead at the Free Spirit caravan park, which is on the out-skirts of Darwin.

When we arrived, we set up quickly as there looked like a massive storm brewing. Just as we finished, down it came, in typical tropical form. It teamed for an hour or so, then as suddenly as it started, it stopped.

We spent a couple of days walking around Darwin, picking up food and bits and pieces we decided we needed. Including a new lens for my camera, as my old one had jammed.

We went to the Mindil Night Market, which was an eye opener. So many people and the food stalls were amazing. Luckily we had been told just to buy a little bit from each stall, but after 3 stalls, we were full!

We went down to the wharf and walked out to the end, where Mick, Bobby, Hal and I had breakfast one day a few years ago. then onto the Botanical Gardens for a wander through this spectacular place. It was very hot and humid, so we scarped back and jumped into the park swimming pool.

One place we were all looking forward to going was Litchfield. Litchfield is about 100klm south od Darwin, and we wanted to spend 2 or 3 days there. We arrived at the small camp ground of Wangi Falls in the National Park, and were very lucky to get into the only 2 camp sites left. We later saw vans and cars queuing up for days to get a spot, they just camp on the side of the road waiting.

Over the next few days we walked as much as we could including: The Termite Mounds, The Lost City, Florence Falls, Buley Water Hole and The Cascades.

the Cascades was a walk of about 2 klm through fairly desolate ground. But once we came to the river it was simply amazing! Pool after pool of crystal clear water tumbling down to the next pool. The best part there were no crocodilios. We even found a pool with a sandy beach. also we were on our own. We have found if you are prepared to walk, the majority of people are lazy and go to the closest pools, where there can be up to 100 bodies. Even some of those are spectacular to say the least. This is a place you could stay a couple of days.

I met an old bloke, who was travelling with his dog, i asked him where he was heading, and he said he woke up that morning and asked his dog where they should go, when the dog didn’t answer, he decided the dog wanted to stay another day. Before we left, he told me he was moving on the next day, down the road. But only about 6klm to a free camp. He reckoned 6klm a big drive!

Leaving early we headed for Kununurra. It was with some trepidation and anticipation when we approached, as Kununurra had such a influence on my life and was life changing.

We had booked into the Discovery Caravan Park, run by Mark and his partner Katherine. and what an amazing job they are doing. 4 nights a week, down by the river-side they put on: Tuesday:- Prawns and Oysters, Wednesday:- Barra Burgers and Thursday is Camp Oven Night, where Katherine cooks for 2 days to fill about 10 camp ovens with curries and stews, all finished off with Damper.

It is a $5 or $10 donation to Starlight or St Johns Ambulance. All of the “Discovery” staff get involved and help out. as Mark said’ “it is one way we can give back to the community”.

I went out driving and discovered some of the old haunts from 40 years ago. Irrigation channels that i surveyed and dug, Water wheels for measuring the flow of water. Ivanhoe Crossing, and to top it off, Carolyn and i went for a drive out the Old Wyndam road, very dusty and bumpy, looking for the grave of Davis Sutton, who was the Head Stockman from the book “We of the Never Never”. After 25 kilometres, there was no sign of it. we decided to turn around and head back to town and ask if anyone knew of it’s whereabouts. as we were driving down through a creek bed, i just happened to look up the creek and spotted a white cross. Bingo!

Here are a couple of photos.

(As a 20 year old, with his life before him) 44 years on, as an old man with his life fast disappearing

I will have to post the earlier photo when i get home, as it is on my ipad and technology will not allow me to transfer it!

We did a trip down the Kununurra River starting at the Lake Argyle wall. a great trip on a boat with 50 people capable of doing 80klm per hour. It was powered by 3x 330hp Yamaha 4 stroke motors. The next day was a more sedate day trip on Lake Argyle, which was as spectacular, but in a different way. This ended in a swim at sunset with a beer and a glass of champa’s whilst floating around with noodles to support us.

All in all i loved Kununurra and am already planning a return trip to work for a season